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Ich bin (k)eine Berlinerin: Hamburg & Berlin

Hallo Leute! After a whirlwind summer I've finally found my feet again and set up 'house' in Kreuzberg, Berlin. I'm having an excellent time pretending that I fit into the ultra-cool fabric of Berlin society (though I'm pretty sure I equate to the tomato sauce stain on their chic, German cloth). On the topic of fabric, this first photo is of Mireille and I at the Eis Fabrik (an abandoned ice cream factory by the river Spree, now teeming with homeless men and hipster film crews).



But before we get into the abandoned aesthetic of Berlin, I should back track north to Hamburg.  Armed with a troupe of friends from right across Germany, I lazed about for five days and visited the Dockville Music Festival. Our stay also featured many cafe stops and an inflatable boat.

Florian (the able captain) and Daniel took up the oars, whilst I took a little bit of coaxing to get aboard...

...but we got there.


Here are the two Wiesbaden sisters (Freya and Sarah) in appropriately nautical gear.

The following day was Dockville showtime. Highlights of the festival included Woodkid, MS MR, Crystal Fighters and When Saints Go Machine. As the name suggests it was located in the dock area of the city and was just one of one those situations where everything and everybody was achingly cool. I practically developed a stitch from feeling inferior/ envious (and dancing vigorously).


The lovely Ally who hosted Sarah, Freya and me in her (cat infested) flat.

Aaaand the lovely panda balloon that I adopted in the mosh. He just floated down onto my head during the MS MR set and it was monochrome love.


It's no surprise that I thought Hamburg was awesome (sometimes I feel like I'm just traveling around Europe announcing every single place as "awesome", so I apologise if my enthusiasm gets naff) but but buuut, Hamburg is officially added to the list alongside Lisbon and Fes (and Amsterdam obviously) of my favourite cities in the world. Anybody with an interest in underground music/art/shenanigans (or with a taste for pretzels, kebabs or specialty soft drinks) should definitely go ASAP.

Now to my present location...


 On the 22nd of August me and my shamefully rainbow luggage moved to Berlin. The apartment I'd rented for the month was simultaneously amazing and filthy. It was loaded with musical instruments, french books and dirt. Just to paint a picture, during my inaugural clean I discovered a shot glass down the shower drain, a cap gun stashed by the toilet and packets of glitter in the fridge. All signs of a fun stay - and a fun stay it has been!

One my second day in Berlin I was joined by Mireille (express from Japan!) and good old Daniel (who clearly missed having me as a housemate). I think they make very pretty additions to the house.


Some snippy snaps from Potsdam, a neighbouring town where the palace Sans Souci is located. My Uncle told me that it was the palace for the Prussian King Frederick the Great and that sans souci means 'no worries' in French; I spent the rest of the afternoon singing "Hakuna Matata! It means no worries..." under my breath.



Postdam University. Bleak yet chic.

Back in Berlin we (read: Daniel) discovered that every Saturday a hoard of Thai women illegally set up little food stalls in Preußen Park and sell the world's greatest Thai food straight from their umbrellaed camping stoves. I had pink noodles, rice paper rolls, octopus salad, deep fried sweet potato and a food baby. 

Mireille had the giggles.

This is Badeschiff swimming pool, a 15 minute stroll from our place. It's a pool in a river. If you look real close it's actually me in a pool in a river. Now that's deep ;)

More Eis Fabrik exploring.


Across the river from Kater Holzig. A glamourously derelict night club/ haven that is famous for its fickle door policy. We went there a few nights later and the bouncer (who was dressed as an evil clown just to make us feel more at ease) initially scoffed at my whimpering, german request for entry, and only let us in 'cause Mireille was from Tokyo. We took what we could get. Inside it was madness, we left as the sun rose after nearly being taken out by some rouge fireworks on the premises 

What German visit would be valid without the quintessential late night/ early morning currywurst?!

Or a trip here.

Or a photo of these two fellows.

So yes, within my first week I'd pretty much fallen in love with Berlin.

Because look! It has a flea market!

And park Karaoke...

...and another park full of abandoned theme park rides.

And another park filled with zoo animals and friends eating ice-cream.

 Of course, Berlin isn't all sunshine and lollipops. This is the gate to Sachsenhausen concentration camp. Going there kind of made me want to vomit up chunks of my faith in humanity, but it was definitely a worthwhile experience.

I think what stuck with me most were the small signs of quirk/ humour/ resilience that popped up (albeit very rarely) throughout the camp. Below is a painting from the camp kitchens. I'm not sure if it was painted by the guards or the prisoner kitchen hands but it's adorably sinister, in a murderous vegetables kind of way. Plus it was pretty much the only sign of colour I saw in that death-washed compound.


Back inside our cheerful apartment bubble the three of us (Ruby, Mireille and myself) prepared a traditional Duetsch dinner of Bratwurst, Kartofel (potato) and Laugenbrot (the same bread that pretzels are made from). We practically sprouted Lederhosen. We certainly did get a little more German when Sarah came to stay!

 Post Teufelsberg hike

All the girl gang at the opening party of Berlin Art Week. 

A few days earlier Mireille's mama (who is in town for Art Week) had taken us to see the Boros Collection which is basically art mayhem inside an old WWII bunker that was then GDR tropical fruit storage that was then a progressive 90s rave club that was then abandoned that is now a private gallery. Because that makes sense.

 A watermelon flavoured fairy floss at the opening. THIS is art.

And this is hilarity (Mireille with her all time favourite vegetable at the KW Gallery).


So yep yep, that's sort up summarises an unsumisable month. Still have another weekend waddling around in the Berlin playground. I'm planning to take advantage of the free Gallery entrance of Art Week and the HARIBO Gummi Bear special currently on at the local supermarket. Could be a delightful combo. Next stops are Frankfurt, Wiesbaden and then Italia! If I haven't turned to Gummi I'll be in touch soon. x

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